Fix Your Trainers & Boots at Home: A UK Guide to E6000® Shoe Goo® II (Low‑Odour)
Skill level: Easy–Intermediate · Time: 30–60 minutes hands‑on (+ 24–72 hours curing) · Audience: UK DIYers
Short version: Clean, dry and roughen the surfaces; mask the edges; apply a thin, even layer of E6000 Shoe Goo II; press and hold with tape/clamps; let it cure undisturbed. Below is the complete, detailed walkthrough with pro tips, safety notes, and the situations where repair isn’t the best idea.
Why E6000® Shoe Goo® II?
- Low odour, low VOC formula that’s friendlier to use indoors than classic solvent glues.
- Flexible, shock‑absorbing bond that moves with your footwear instead of cracking.
- Water‑resistant once fully cured, suitable for our famously wet UK weather.
- Multi‑material: commonly used on rubber outsoles, leather, canvas, and many synthetics.*
Always patch‑test on a hidden area first—some plastics (e.g., certain TPE/PP blends) and coated fabrics can be tricky.
Items for the repair (not all are needed, but they will help)
- E6000® Shoe Goo® II (clear)
- Isopropyl alcohol (IPA, “rubbing alcohol”) or non‑oily acetone/nail varnish remover
- Warm water, mild washing‑up liquid, old toothbrush or shoe brush
- 80–120 grit sandpaper or an emery board
- Masking/painter’s tape (low‑tack is ideal)
- Cotton buds & lint‑free cloths
- Wooden coffee stirrers / small spatula / old butter knife
- Elastic bands, bulldog clips, spring clamps, or gaffer tape (for holding pressure)
- Baking parchment/greaseproof paper (to prevent your clamps/tape sticking)
- Old newspapers/socks to stuff inside and keep the shoe’s shape
- Optional: nitrile gloves, safety glasses, a small craft knife for tidy‑up
Safety First (Read This Bit!)
Even though Shoe Goo II is low‑odour, treat it like any adhesive: 1. Ventilation: Work in a well‑ventilated space. Open a window or work near an extractor. 2. Skin & eyes: Wear nitrile gloves and avoid contact. If it comes into contact with the skin, wipe off promptly and wash with soap and water. If in the eyes, rinse with clean water for several minutes and seek medical advice. 3. No flames/heat: Keep away from naked flames and high heat during application and curing. 4. Children & pets: Keep out of reach. Pets are surprisingly curious about glue. 5. Disposal: Don’t pour liquid glue down drains. Let small leftovers cure in the cap/nozzle and dispose of them with regular household waste; for larger quantities, follow your local council guidance. 6. Follow the label: Always defer to the instructions and safety info printed on your specific tube.
Diagnose the Damage (Pick the Right Fix)
- Edge peel: Outsole lifting at the toe/heel corners → quick clean, glue, tape.
- Partial delamination: Sole coming away along one side → more prep and stronger clamping.
- Full separation: Sole mostly off → staged glueing, section by section.
- Upper split: Canvas/leather seam opening → glue from inside and clamp.
- Toe/heel wear‑through: Abrasion hole → build up thin layers or add a patch.
If the midsole foam crumbles to dust (common on older trainers due to hydrolysis), adhesive won’t restore structure—see “When Not to Repair”.
Step‑by‑Step: Perfect Prep
Significant repairs require 80% preparation.
- Clean
Brush off mud and grit. For heavy grime, scrub with warm water + a drop of washing‑up liquid. Rinse and let dry completely (overnight if needed). - Degrease
Wipe bonding areas with IPA (or non‑oily acetone) on a lint‑free cloth. Let solvents flash off. - Roughen
Lightly sand both mating surfaces where you’ll apply glue (80–120 grit). You want a matt, keyed surface. Brush away dust. - Mask
Run masking tape along edges to catch squeeze‑out. If glueing near the upper, tape off the fabric/leather as well. - Dry‑fit
Press parts together with no glue to check alignment. Plan your clamping strategy now so you’re not wrestling once the adhesive is on.
Application & Bonding
Conditions matter. Aim for 18–24°C in a dry room. Cold, damp sheds slow curing.
General method (most materials): 1. Apply a thin, even coat of Shoe Goo II to one surface (for very porous materials, a light “primer” coat, let it go tacky, then a second coat can help). 2. Wait 1–5 minutes until slightly tacky (follow your tube’s guidance), then bring parts together. 3. Press firmly from one end to the other to push out air. Wipe any squeeze‑out with a cotton bud. 4. Hold under pressure using tape, bands or clamps (see next section).
Material notes: - Rubber to rubber: Roughen well; a thin coat is stronger than a thick blob. - Leather: Degrease carefully; avoid soaking. A very light sand helps on the flesh side. - Canvas/fabric: Pre‑coat lightly; let it tack; then a second coat before closing. - EVA/PU midsoles: Usually fine, but if the foam flakes or powders, stop—structural failure won’t hold.
Cure time: Light handling may be possible after a few hours, but full strength typically needs 24–72 hours, depending on thickness, temperature and humidity. Always follow the instructions on your tube.
How to Hold It While It Bonds (Clamping Hacks)
Toe/heel peels: Wrap snugly with masking tape or elastic bands. Add a strip of greaseproof paper under the tape to prevent it from becoming part of the shoe.
- Long side delamination: Use gaffer tape in a spiral from toe to heel; add elastic bands around the midfoot. A few bulldog clips with card/foam pads can help along the edge.
- Full sole: Work in sections: glue and clamp the toe first; once it’s stable (30–60 minutes), move along the midfoot, then heel.
- Upper splits: Stuff the shoe firmly with newspaper/socks to push from inside, then clamp the split with pegs/bulldog clips and card pads.
- Shape control: Keep the last/shape by stuffing well, or slide the shoe onto a makeshift “last” (a narrow tin or block) while curing.
Don’t over‑clamp—squeezing out all adhesive weakens the joint. Aim for firm, even pressure.
Common Repairs—Mini Walkthroughs
1) Toe Peel on a Trainer
- Prep (clean, degrease, roughen, mask).
- Thin glue coat under the lifted area.
- Press from the tip backwards; wipe the squeeze‑out.
- Tape tightly front‑to‑back.
- Cure 24–72 hours; avoid flexing.
2) Long Side Sole Delamination
- Prop the flap open with cocktail sticks while you spread a thin coat.
- Remove sticks, roll the sole on gradually.
- Spiral tape the whole shoe; add bands around the midfoot
- Cure fully before use.
3) Canvas Upper Split (at the vamp)
- Work glue slightly inside the split with a cotton bud.
- Press the seam closed; clamp with pegs and card pads.
- After cure, run a hair‑thin bead over the seam as a flexible seal.
4) Heel Wear‑Through
- Trim loose fibres.
- Lightly sand around the wear spot.
- Build thin layers of Shoe Goo II, letting each skim layer set before the next.
- Optionally, bed a small patch of thin rubber/fabric into a mid‑layer for reinforcement.
Finishing & Aftercare
- Tidy edges: Once cured, trim cured squeeze‑out carefully with a craft knife.
- Waterproofing: After full cure, reapply your usual shoe care (polish, dubbin, spray). Test first.
- Break‑in: First outing should be short and dry. Avoid heavy flexing for the first day.
When It’s Better Not to Repair (Save Your Time & Toes)
- Crumbling midsoles (PU hydrolysis): The shoe has lost structural integrity. Glue won’t resurrect foam that turns to powder.
- Severe sole wear: Tread worn flat or holes right through the outsole—traction and safety are compromised.
- Split or cracked midsoles/heels: Especially in running shoes; flex stresses will reopen the joint.
- Safety boots with damaged toe caps, penetrated midsoles, or failed anti‑slip/ESD features—replace for safety compliance.
- Waterproof membrane failure (e.g., Gore‑Tex linings), causing persistent leaks—adhesive won’t restore factory seam taping.
- Stitching that carries load on heavy leather boots—best left to a cobbler for re‑stitching/sole replacement.
- Children’s school shoes close to being outgrown—economics rarely stack up.
If you’re unsure, a local cobbler can advise on resoling or whether the shoe’s worth the effort.
Troubleshooting
- Bond feels rubbery/weak the next day → Room too cold/damp or glue too thick. Warm, dry conditions and thinner coats help. Give it more curing time.
- Edges keep lifting → Inadequate prep. Clean and roughen further; try a lighter clamp that holds the shape without squeezing everything out.
- White haze or shiny patches → Residue from solvent or dust. Degrease again and reapply a skinny finishing bead.
- Glue won’t wet the surface → Some plastics are low‑energy. Lightly sand, wipe with IPA, and try a skinny primer coat before the main layer.
FAQ (Quick Answers)
Is Shoe Goo II waterproof?
It’s water‑resistant once fully cured. Let it cure completely before getting the shoes wet.
How long before I can wear them?
Plan for 24–72 hours to reach near‑full strength (thicker joints take longer). Cold, damp UK garages slow things down.
Will it stay flexible?
Yes—Shoe Goo II cures to a flexible, shock‑absorbing bond suited to footwear.
What materials work best?
Rubber, leather, canvas and many trainer midsole foams. Always patch‑test; certain plastics and coated fabrics may resist bonding.
Can I colour it?
Clear beads can sometimes be tinted slightly by laying over matching fabric or using a skinny final coat; do a test first. (Thick clear adhesives may amber somewhat over time—keep visible beads minimal.
Sustainability Note
A good repair can add months to a favourite pair—less waste and better value. When you do replace, consider resolable or repair‑friendly footwear next time.
Final Checklist
☐ Clean & dry thoroughly
☐ Degrease with IPA/acetone
☐ Lightly sand/roughen
☐ Mask edges
☐ Dry‑fit and plan clamps
☐ Thin, even coat of Shoe Goo II
☐ Press, wipe, squeeze out
☐ Hold with tape/bands/clips
☐ Cure 24–72 hours
☐ Trim and test on a short, dry walk
Disclaimer: This guide is for general information. Always follow the instructions and safety information on your specific tube of E6000® Shoe Goo® II and take appropriate safety precautions.